BENEATH THE SURFACE – Stitched Double Cloth, Piqué, Matelassé, non-chemical Cloqué and introducing waffle weave for texture (2010 – revised 2020) (116pp) Downloadable PDF 29€
This monograph, written in 2010 and now extensively revised in 2020 for 8-shaft weavers, follows a series of samples exploring the potential of using stitched double cloth and related techniques to create textural surfaces. Beginning with piqué and matelassé and including non-chemical cloqué and general stitched double cloth, differential shrinkage has been used to create ‘quilted’ and ‘stitched’ effects forming puckers and folds to give sophisticated results which have an organic feel to them. Comprehensive descriptions of each of the techniques are given including historical context and extensive drafts for 8-shafts and more which show how these all work in practice, including using waffle weave to create ‘brain’ folds in fabric.
Whilst stitched double cloth can be used with as few as 4 shafts, multi-shaft looms give greater variety in textures. The samples for the monograph were woven on a 24S AVL but despite that, the principles behind the technique are easily converted to 8 shafts and all the principles behind the different techniques have been given for 8 shafts and more. It has 116 pages and weaving drafts and images of all samples are included as well as many drafts explaining the principles for 8-shafts.