BENEATH THE SURFACE – Stitched Double Cloth, Piqué, Matelassé, non-chemical Cloqué and introducing waffle weave for texture (2010 – revised 2020)  (116pp)    Downloadable PDF 29€ 

This monograph, written in 2010 and extensively revised in 2020 for 8-shaft weavers, follows a series of samples exploring the potential of using stitched double cloth and related techniques to create textural surfaces.  Beginning with piqué and matelassé and including non-chemical cloqué and general stitched double cloth, differential shrinkage has been used to create ‘quilted’ and ‘stitched’ effects to form puckers and folds. These give sophisticated results which have an organic feel to them. Comprehensive descriptions of each of the techniques are given including historical context. Extensive drafts for 8-shafts and more show how these all work in practice, including using waffle weave to create ‘brain’ folds in fabric.

Stitched double cloth can be used with as few as 4 shafts, but multi-shaft looms give greater variety in textures.  The samples for the monograph were woven on a 24S dobby loom but despite that, the principles behind the technique are easily converted to 8 shafts. Each technique is explained and drafts given for 8 shafts and more. The monograph has 116 pages and weaving drafts and images of all samples are included.